Writings

Zeppoli

618 W Collings Ave, Collingswood NJ 08107

If you venture to Zeppoli during a heatwave, make like an old Italian nonna and bring a paper fan. Barely inside for twenty minutes, I was schvitzing, forlornly glancing at the lazy, mostly ineffective ceiling fan. While I did admire the rustic decor that hinted at the intimacy of being inside someone's home- cloth curtains, hardwood floors, mismatched tables and chairs, house plants, the exposed kitchen-- the nearly unbearable heat made the idea of indulging in a heavy Italian dinner a daunting one.

Despite the uncomfortable temperature, the charm of Chef Joey Baldino's (Palizzi Social Club) sweet little BYOB began to soften me up like a Xanax. Starting off with slightly frazzled and sweaty service, we managed to get an ice bucket for the wine, but no wine key to open the bottle. The waiters were sheepishly adorable, if not downright earnest, so once the bottle was finally opened, it was easy to forgive them. Even on a Sunday, the sweet little restaurant was almost completely full, laughing patrons squeezed into every available corner, the divine smell of meat roasting wafting through the thick air.

In no time at all, the food began to arrive; a seemingly endless and wonderful revolving door of flavor. A so much more than standard Italian antipasto plate adorned with Castelavetrano olives, a sweet and spicy, heartachingly lovely olive oil for dipping the house-made foccacia, fennel sausage classically paired with sharp broccoli rabe. The best panzanella I've ever had, with large, moist croutons and ripe, vinegary tomatoes beneath plump anchovies. Thankfully, pastas can be ordered either as an appetizer or entree portion; by the time the lemony, buttery tagliatelle arrived, it became clear that I might not make it to dessert without unbuttoning my top button. For my entree, I opted for the Sicilian Fisherman's Stew, which had the most marvelous but mysterious broth (was that chocolate in there? Cloves?). Though I simply couldn't finish all of those wonderful shrimp and mussels, I nearly asked for a spoon to consume the precious broth. My guest had the rabbit, tender and succulent and served with crispy oven roasted potatoes, of which he ate every bite.

Unable to choose just one dessert we got them all, and they did not disappoint. A light and airy almond panna cotta with tangy fresh strawberries, olive oil gelato whose mouthfeel was truly that of a good olive oil- rich and slippery, and of course, one does not dine at a restaurant named Zeppoli without having the namesake dish. Chubby fried balls of sugary doughy delight. Upon leaving, our waitstaff was warm and sincere, smiles all around. The takeaway? Prepare for the sweet delirium of excess. If I were on death row and had to pick a last meal, I might choose this feast.